Italy

As we pulled away from Stromboli, we witnessed the far away explosions of the volcano. Amazing that it explodes constantly whether day or night.

We had a private sleeping cabin in the ferry so I washed away the grime of the day before passing out.

Sunday, September 8

We disembarked at Naples, taxied to the train terminal, and spent an hour trying to find the platform to Herculaneum. Signage sucked. I wanted to be upset but that really does no good in that situation.

Herculaneum is an amazing freeze of time, thanks to Vesuvius. Well-preserved rooms, frescoes, jewelry, statues, and skeletons give a glimpse of ancient private life and the last moments before their destruction. We will see Pompeii another time.

Although we were supposed to go to a famous pizza place in Naples, the line was so long, we opted for pizza across the street which we were told was just as good. I was hoping to be wowed by pizza in its birthplace but it was just pizza. Sad.

We’d been warned of a train workers strike so we anxiously watched the departure board as many trains were canceled. Thankfully, our train arrived on time, the ride uneventful, and aside from the insanely long taxi queue, we arrived at our host’s home. Tired and dirty, I had to remember how to converse with someone other than DH2. Fruit and wine helped. After a brief shower at our hotel, we dined with the research group that DH2 has collaborated with for over a decade. Long day. Exhausted.

Monday, September 9

“Are you willing to walk a half hour with me to go to Piazza Navona?” I asked DH2 before he was fully conscious. As he mumbled ok, I was dressed and was dragging him out into the recently rain-flooded streets of Rome. Our path took us past the Coliseum and discovered that Rome was under construction with Google not knowing we couldn’t take the route it wanted us to take. I was disappointed to find that the fountains in Piazza Navona were under renovation so I couldn’t replicate my 1980 memory. At the Trevi Fountain, there was a crowd (8:30am) but nothing like I knew there would be later in the day. Walking back past the coliseum and forum, I was spooked by the throngs of people streaming into the area. I decided i didn’t want to be a part of that mess.

After breakfast I toured St Clemente church when DH2 went to his conference. It was dumping rain when I emerged from the church so I opted for lunch at the hotel (something we rarely do) and took the afternoon off. I hadn’t been still for over a week.

A text informed me that a car would arrive at 6pm to take me to the conference dinner. The car arrived 5 minutes early: excellent. The driver, who only spoke Italian asked where I was going and I had no idea so he called someone who did speak some English but again he asked me where i was going and again I said i didn’t know. I had to trust that the initial set up was correct and that dinner with DH2 would in fact be at the other end.

Traffic was awful and it took 1.5 hours to get to the food destination. The first food experience was with the students from the lab that DH2 collaborates with. I had never seen so many Aperol Spritzes in my life so it was like we had our own sunset along the table. I ate too much, so when we proceeded to the dinner with the advisory council, I could barely eat. I had a bite of pigeon; tasted like chicken. We had after dinner drinks made with Myrtle and one with Cedro – big citron. Yum. Long day.

Tuesday, September 10

To the forum we go! We spent the whole morning exploring the ancient ruins of the once vibrant forum of Rome. Seeing the spot where Cesar was stabbed were surreal.

In tribute to Cesar, we had his salad for lunch even though it wasn’t invented in Italy. Taxis were impossible to hail so we took the subway to the Vatican instead. That place is huge. A very long line eventually led us inside St Peter’s Basilica and we spent time sitting to marvel at the wealth (and beauty) of the catholic church. In 1980 when I visited, I do remember seeing Michelangelo’s Pieta behind glass but this time there was no glass. Such a stunning work.

The queue for the Vatican art museum was chaotic and I was surprised we got in ever! Wandering through the museum, we spent the most time looking at the statuary. My personal battery was running low so I nudged us to the finale of the Sistine Chapel. I know I studied the art and recognized many of the panels but couldn’t remember the salient points. Amazing.

Subway back to the hotel on personal 2% battery so i was happy to eat at the hotel and stay in for the night.

Wednesday, September 11

At 4am, DH2 was up to depart for his flight to Texas. Since I was flying home, I got to chill in the room until noon but it also meant I had to navigate the taxi, customs, security, gate navigation in my own. In the taxi ride, I talked to myself to calm down i.e. I had to be my own “emotional support golden retriever.” It all went fine except for the guy coughing behind me while I was eating/ charging my phone.

Random thoughts

My 1980 memories are hazy to non-existent. I now want to find that travel journal and photo album to see what i actually did.

The traffic was just as crazy as I remembered it.

There was an influencer event for the preview of the next season of “Emily in Paris” and two of the women I follow on social media were in Rome for the red carpet event. Some of their posts were from places I had visited and it appeared I had missed them by a half-hour. Life is timing

This was a jam packed trip and I’m ready to be still for a few days. Caio!