Aeolian Islands

Friday, September 6

The ferry to Stromboli was smooth and uneventful but once we landed, we had to move quickly to check into the hotel, rent a headlamp, buy food, and check in for our sunset hike. We were about to see an erupting volcano!

It was hot but thankfully we mostly walked in the volcano’s shadow for the 2-hour hike up. The switchback-trail climbed through bamboo and new native growth, above the city with pretty views of the ocean. Because I hiked in a travel dress and was one of the oldest people in the group, I did not want to be the one who slowed the group in any way.

We arrived 400m from the top at sunset (going to the top is forbidden now since a hiker died recently in an eruption) and watched the awesome show of fiery might. Occasional booms signaled an eruption but usually the orange fireworks exploded up with no sound. Periodic gray plumes billowed into the sky, rising to incredible heights. We watched nature’s show for 2 hours, well into total darkness with a moon-sliver hovering to the side. Assisted by our headlamps, the walk down the volcano took a different route, winding through a town where at 10:30pm, the patios were filled with lively conversation, and the air was heavy with delicious night-blooming flora.

Talk about a dusty, dirty hike! I used a whole bar of hotel soap washing the dirt of my body. This was a great day.

Saturday, September 7

A short 30-minute ferry delivered us to Salina where we rented a scooter and bopped around the island. While traversing the narrow, twisty, and steep roads, we passed vineyards, colorful churches, and 8-foot trailing caper bushes. Our morning snack was a coffee granita with a huge dollop of thick, sweet cream. I’d never had such a drink and boy was it delicious. Back on the scooter, we traversed the island and stopped at a catholic church. To offer prayers by “lighting a candle,” you drop your coin in and press a button for an electric tea light to turn on. Ah, progress. Lunch on the far side was a simple salad with a lemon granita. Yum. We had 30 minutes to return to the marina and barely stumbled on board on time.

A wall of stifling heat welcomed us to Lipari. We stopped for a drink and it took me an hour to finish a bottle of water. I felt awful. Our goal was the anthropology museum at the castle but I was suffering by the time we got there. The museum had an impressive collection but was not air-conditioned so by the time we reached the 3rd building I believe I had heat exhaustion. The Greek and Roman displays were stunning and helped me rally for the rest of our time on Lipari. A light dinner was followed by a mulberry granita for DH2 and a pistachio gelato, in a bowl (I learned my lesson last time) for me. Yum. A ferry returned us to Stromboli for a 3 hour wait for our overnight ferry to Naples.